FROM THE JERSEY JOURNAL (Newhouse Newspapers)
Saturday, October 21, 2006
By COTTON DELO
JOURNAL STAFF WRITER
Like a phoenix from the ashes, The Brownstone Diner & Pancake Factory on Jersey Avenue is a fitting symbol for Downtown Jersey City's renaissance.
After 40 years of ownership, the Bournias family opted to tear down the former Newport Pancake House - a luncheonette housed in a diner car - and erected a new building with high ceilings and wood floors.
The former greasy spoon serves mixed salads, wraps and panini and stays open until 11 p.m. - cultivating a customer base of newcomers to the area in addition to long-time Jersey City residents. But it stays true to its roots with the 40 different types of pancakes it serves, and only two members of the Bournias clan and one trusted employee of 25 years know the recipe for the batter.
With restaurants now occupying a sizable chunk of the real estate on Grove Street, Downtown Jersey City is an emerging destination for foodies, and that designation seems sure to stick with the continued influx of young professionals.
Try Amelia's Bistro in Paulus Hook for flavorful entrees with sophisticated ingredients like the sesame seared ahi tuna salad and panko crusted crab cakes served over a bed of greens with mango salsa.
If you're seeking something festive, The Merchant on Grove Street is solid with a jam-packed downstairs bar attended loyally by members of city government. The upstairs is a peaceful refuge in which to savor the offerings of posh bar food and New American cuisine - from juicy burgers and sweet potato fries to Chilean sea bass.
For a superior weekend brunch, visit the Hamilton Park Ale House on Jersey Avenue and choose between eggs benedict and chocolate-chip strawberry pancakes with fresh amaretto cream. Don't forget to treat yourself to a blood mary or mimosa. The homey pub is open for lunch on weekdays and dinner every day of the week with thoughtfully prepared dishes like warm steak salad with capers, smoked mozzarella, sundried tomatoes and chopped greens in red wine vinaigrette.
Sushi lovers shouldn't miss Komegashi and its twin Komegashi Too adjoining the Newport marina. Both establishments have a full sushi bar and extensive sake list - good for a light lunch or an indulgent dinner.
For a decor as beautiful as what's on your plate, try Newport's South City Grill - ultra-modern and done up in tones of silver, blue and green to evoke the iridescence of fish scales. Especially succulent are the raw bar offerings.
After a rough week, treat yourself to Vu at Exchange Place's riverside Hyatt Regency hotel with magnificent views of the Manhattan skyline. If you're too broke to stay for dinner, sit in the lounge and order a stiff martini to complement olives stuffed with ricotta cheese.
Though restaurants catering to fine diners are flourishing, Jersey City's ethnic mosaic is visible in the profusion of Downtown restaurants where the emphasis is on food instead of atmosphere. Pick up delicious - and cheap - falafel or chicken schawarma (skewered meat) at Ibby's Falafel on Grove Street. Highly regarded Vietnamese food can be had at Nha Trang Place on Newark Avenue, and authentic Mexican - minus the nachos and guacamole - is served at Grove Street's Taqueria.
For Ralph Rodriguez, owner of the European-style bistro Marco & Pepe on Grove Street, it was the architectural beauty of Jersey City that inspired him to open his restaurant six years ago - though the well-traveled, food-savvy set of new residents was another consideration.
"When I saw City Hall and I saw this little building, I thought this was perfect," said Rodriguez, 41, originally from Spain, whose restaurant is located across the street from City Hall - recalling the look of a European plaza to him. "It's almost like it wasn't my idea. It was here all the time."